• La Marque Marjolaine found at the boutique La Ligne Ideale Monaco 

La Marque Marjolaine found at the boutique La Ligne Ideale Monaco 

The History of the Feminine Lingerie

fashion & stylenews

4 November 2020

The Lingerie is a piece of style you put to yourself! It is more than a clothing piece but a symbol of femininity.

First steps in lingerie

Its first use was utilitarian, during ancient Greece where women wore linen tunics to cover their female parts. Lingerie appeared vaguely during antiquity as "apodesm," a bandage forming a belt under the breast to hold it. In the Middle Ages, apodesme became a gorgerette and was worn in addition to an imposing cotton tunic as an undergarment.

Lingerie in Renaissance

At the start of the Renaissance, the ancestors of corsets (basquines) make their appearances and will evolve throughout this period. More and more narrow to finally take the shape of an "S" to emphasize the roundness of the hips and the sensuality of the women. The woman, during the Renaissance wears a superposition of skirts of different fabrics, the bust is held in a laced corset. This type of lingerie is decorated and embellished with lace (very fashionable for men and women) and is worn under the thick dresses of the time.

The shirt turns white which is synonymous with cleanliness as well as richness. Since the great plague epidemics of the 15th century in fact, water, suspected of transmitting the disease, is frightening. Laundry is therefore only done once a year in the "big houses". Unlike the poorest, only wealthy families can own enough shirts to change them daily! Hence the adage of the time "only wash the lousy" ...
In the time of François 1er, we also note the appearance of the farthingale or "guard-Infante". Inherited from severe Spain and worn with a pointed bodice stiffened by a blade of wood, metal or ivory (comb), this accessory contributes to considerably modifying the silhouette of the woman.

The Lingerie of the 19th century

Lingerie to awaken the forms of women is therefore starting to make its appearance, but it is not without counting on the upheaval of society in the 19th century that all this takes it to another level. 

In this times, the lingerie is a trousseau used by the young girls in all stages of their lives, mostly marking their linen with their initials. Each of them was unique, so it was on display at the girl's wedding. This trousseau therefore accompanies the transformations of a woman in her apprenticeship in femininity and her rites of the time. Also, pants come to women's life.

Women need to move freely

With time, women need to move more and they need fluidity in their clothing. So, they don't wear corsets anymore, the panties become shorter and less puffy, the legs are revealed and it is the stockings and the garter belts that are in the spotlight. This is the beginning of the emancipation of women, they assert themselves through their clothes and underwear, society is changing. Silhouettes start to get thinner, women want to feel more free. The breasts are therefore supported either by a bra corset cover or by a Georgette or by a throat support to finally call it a bra (1904 in the Larousse). 

The 20s, the 30s and the new era

More and more the erotic part comes into the game and the thirties see a boom in this industry. 

The boyish era of the 1920s gives way to the sheath. This type of lingerie aims to maintain the pelvis and unify the shapes, the lingerie becomes more technical and more natural. The 1930s are the era of a new femininity, women become more romantic. This romanticism is illustrated by the success of Autant En Emporte Le Vent in 1939. The sheath is not the only evolution in lingerie, the bra takes a new turn it is structured in two cups instead of a band. better support and becomes a separate piece from the corsetry. Keskos, a brand straight out of the United States, embodies this new phenomenon with its triangular structure bras. The first alphabet book of women's breasts appeared in 1935 (size A to D), with the aim of standardizing production. The basque became queen in the 1930s, a little more whalebone the first was launched in 1945 by Marcel Rochas. It is the parure par excellence for stars Rita Hayworth, Marilyne or Brigitte Bardot. 

With the appearance of the new materials (nylon, lycra, muslin, fishnet), the  lingerie is produced at a larger scale. The lingerie becomes more fanciful thanks to the prints and diversity, tunring into a real object of seduction combining comfort and aesthetics. 

The 60s are synonymous with child women, no more focus on the generous shapes. The bodies with small breasts that are in trend. The woman-child, therefore, has little breasts and wears lycra bras (a material that will revolutionize lingerie). It's also the heyday of tights. 

A new movement takes place where lingerie becomes obsolete and doesn't take much part in women's life as they want to let their body be free. Still, the lingerie doesn't want to give up and in the 70s, everything becomes more minimalist like the famous wireless bra.  

The 90s, a turning point for the lingerie

The 90's balconette and push-up bras are brought up to date. The 90s marked a turning point in lingerie, underwear entered the fashion world and became a social code in its own right. Lingerie has a status on its own, it has become a must have on all shapes and social levels. From simple lines to more sophisticated, the lingerie has become a fashion statement and a powerful symbol. 

Our recommendation is:

La Ligne Ideale Monaco

35 Boulevard Princesse Charlotte

Email: laligneidealemc@gmail.com 


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