Paris Haute Couture Week, Natan Couture AW23 , 40 Years Fashion Show

For the first time in its history of sophisticated elegance, the iconic Belgian Fashion House composed an ode to the 1950s Couture, featuring contemporary silhouettes with minimalistic volumes, definitely feminine in their refined approach.

Like an architecture of modernist inspiration blended with a life statue's abstract curves, the dresses - key pieces of this collection - venture through a layered narrative, with transposable, timeless fashion messages. Very short dresses with wide volumes form a sensual consistency with a range of skilfully structured flared skirts, while long sleeves playfully mask the shoulders in every possible way, commemorating softer eighties outlines and matching them up with airier curves.

To celebrate Maison Natan's 40th fashion anniversary in a way embedded in a luxury both cross-functional and suitable for every occasion, Édouard Vermeulen imagined a range of silhouettes rendered in an intense black palette, a choice rarely taken by a fashion designer committed to bringing out colours. Supremely central black contrasts with acid yellow, clementine orange, burgundy, gold and copper compliments.

The collection covers shades and feelings, harbouring pastels which open up on bold, strong, metallic tones. Once again, black shades down to precious grey, and the adornments, feathers and embroidery, emphasise the exquisite distinction of the handicraft. The materials develop a gleam befitting the occasion, the plain-textured embroideries blend with the sparkle of the fabrics, and emphasise the extremely meticulous craftsmanship resulting from a skill carefully passed on in the Brussels workshops of the house.