• Photo courtesy of Elie Saab

Photo courtesy of Elie Saab

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025 Highlights

fashion & stylenews

30 September
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As the grand stages of Paris Fashion Week unfolded for the Spring 2025 collections, the city once again became a global epicenter of high fashion. This season, designers not only pushed creative boundaries but also wove deep cultural and cinematic references into their creations, resulting in an unforgettable showcase. Among the highlights were Alessandro Michele's highly anticipated debut for Valentino, Celine's tribute to the iconic Françoise Hardy, Elie Saab's cinematic journey into the heart of Africa, and Stella McCartney's politically charged collaboration with Natalie Portman.

Alessandro Michele's Valentino Debut: A Spectacle of Excess

Few runway shows at Paris Fashion Week were more hotly anticipated than Alessandro Michele's debut for Valentino. Stepping into the role after leaving Gucci, Michele's new direction for the house was a celebration of maximalism, glamour, and unapologetic excess-a sharp, intentional contrast to the restrained, classic elegance often associated with Valentino.

For the Spring 2025 collection, Michele drew upon his deep understanding of vintage decadence, while incorporating his signature quirkiness. The collection erupted in a riot of colors, textures, and embellishments: silk brocades, lavishly embroidered velvet coats, and shimmering metallics, layered in rich, regal tones like emerald, fuchsia, and gold. Models sauntered down the runway adorned with massive chandelier earrings and platforms that were as impractical as they were spectacular. Feathers, sequins, and bejeweled accessories added to the air of theatricality that Michele so loves.

The designer's playful take on Valentino's romanticism was evident in the juxtaposition of sharp tailoring and soft, flowing silhouettes. A voluminous taffeta gown paired with a studded leather jacket epitomized the tension between classic Valentino elegance and Michele's bold, disruptive vision. In Michele's hands, the Valentino woman is a figure of glamour, not afraid to embrace her most extravagant, decadent fantasies.

Celine's Ode to Françoise Hardy: A Nostalgic Reawakening

Hedi Slimane's Spring 2025 collection for Celine took a decidedly retro turn, paying homage to the effortlessly cool style of 1960s French singer and style icon Françoise Hardy. The collection oozed Parisian chic, with bushy bangs and heavy eyeliner framing models who looked as if they had just stepped out of a Hardy album cover.

The runway show was a love letter to Hardy's rebellious spirit and her fashion-forward sensibilities. Slimane revived the Mod era, dressing models in cropped leather jackets, high-waisted trousers, and knee-high boots. The heavy, sultry eyeliner was paired with shaggy haircuts and bushy, unkempt bangs, giving the looks a raw, lived-in edge.

The color palette was sharp and moody, with blacks, deep reds, and midnight blues dominating. The standout piece of the collection was an immaculately tailored leather trench coat, complete with oversized lapels and a belted waist, reminiscent of Hardy's iconic silhouette. Delicate gold chains and slouchy bags added subtle femininity to otherwise androgynous outfits, perfectly balancing the rocker-chic aesthetic that defines Hardy's legacy.

Slimane's tribute felt personal, and in many ways, emotional-capturing a moment in French fashion history that resonates deeply with Celine's DNA while projecting it forward into a fresh and contemporary light.

Elie Saab: ‘Out of Africa' and Into the Runway

For Spring 2025, Elie Saab transported the audience to the vast savannahs of Africa, taking inspiration from Meryl Streep's classic film Out of Africa. Known for his signature ethereal gowns, Saab surprised with a collection that felt both sporty and light, a shift from the opulence he's known for, while still retaining his unmistakable elegance.

The collection was rich in earthy tones-sandy beiges, deep greens, and burnt oranges-evoking the landscapes of Africa. Lightweight cotton dresses with intricate embroidered details swayed gracefully on the runway, mimicking the undulating plains of the savannah. Saab embraced a sporty sensibility, showcasing belts and utility jackets paired with flowing skirts, blending ruggedness with his signature delicate touch.

The collection was about adventure and exploration, seen in the safari-inspired pieces like khaki jumpsuits, loose-fitting blouses, and wide-brimmed hats that conjured the daring spirit of Streep's character in the film. Accessories, including woven bags and tribal-inspired jewelry, echoed the cultural richness of Africa while staying rooted in the luxurious craftsmanship Saab is known for.

Despite the adventure-ready elements, Saab's elegant flourishes were evident throughout. Flowing evening gowns in muted metallics and light chiffons closed the show, a nod to his signature red-carpet designs, ensuring that even in the wilds of Africa, glamour remains.

Stella McCartney and Natalie Portman: Fashion with a Cause

Stella McCartney's Spring 2025 collection came with a strong message of sustainability, continuing her role as fashion's leading voice for ethical design. This year, however, the message was louder and bolder than ever, with McCartney collaborating with Natalie Portman, a fellow advocate for sustainability, for a collection that balanced eco-consciousness with sharp political commentary.

The runway was peppered with caps and shirts emblazoned with the slogan, "About F-king Time," a clear call to arms regarding environmental action. This collection was McCartney's most radical yet, emphasizing the need for immediate change in both fashion and beyond.

The designs themselves reflected this rebellious energy, with structured blazers, asymmetrical cuts, and tailored pantsuits that exuded power and confidence. McCartney's use of organic cotton, recycled polyester, and sustainable fabrics showed her commitment to reducing fashion's environmental footprint. Natalie Portman made a surprise appearance on the runway, wearing a minimalist black suit and sporting one of the provocative slogan caps, further underlining the collaboration's activist spirit.

Yet amidst the activism, McCartney stayed true to her aesthetic. Delicate floral prints, vegan leather handbags, and eco-friendly footwear ensured that while the message was strong, the clothes remained effortlessly wearable.

A Season of Bold Statements

Paris Fashion Week 2024, and its preview of Spring 2025, was not only a celebration of creativity and excess but also a call for reflection. From Alessandro Michele's theatrical take on Valentino, to Celine's nostalgic tribute, Elie Saab'scinematic journey, and Stella McCartney's impassioned activism, the season's shows were as much about storytelling as they were about fashion. Designers embraced their roles not only as creators but as cultural commentators, using the runway to spark dialogue, inspire change, and remind us of fashion's power to shape the world.

As Paris Fashion Week closes its doors, it leaves behind an exhilarating blend of glamour, nostalgia, and innovation, with the future of fashion looking as diverse and exciting as ever.

 

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