John Galliano First Couture Show for Maison Margiela

One of the most expected returns to fashion was one of John Galliano considered as one of the biggest designers of the fashion world. After his departure from Dior, the fashion designer was in a blurry period of time but his genius was still appreciated by fashion lovers. Maison Margiela wanted to give another chance to this genius and to make a reconstruction of the brand through the designer's vision.

As anticipated, the first John Galliano collection for Maison Margiela was much awaited but the echos of this presentation were not as expected. Of course, the thrills of Galliano's fans were there. Everyone was enchanted to see the retro glamour only Galliano knew how to showcase. 

In a London building near Buckingham Palace, the designer made its appearance after the short collaboration with Oscar de la Renta in 2013. And it was shivers for some, desillusion for others. The collection is bold and keeps the Galliano elements of style alive. The theatrical touch, the dramatic fabrics and the burst of tulle were all there. Also the upcycling trend was there: raw canvas jackets trimmed with Matchbox cars and dresses with 3D faces built on lacquered seashells. This much reminded of Giuseppe Arcimboldo's paintings. Dresses were mixed with platform shoes with eyelash embroideries that created all the playfull look. Tulle, organza, yarn, safety pins, animal prints underwear, black ribbons were mixed together in the Galliano romantic style.

Besides the column silhouettes, the bustier dresses and tuxedo suits, the whaou factor was the finale red gown embellished with jewelry and locketswith the model's face covered by a Day of the Dead mask.

The entire show was presented with restricted access to the Galliano booth and with special guests like Anna Wintour, Manolo Blahnik, Burberry's Christopher Bailey, Lanvin's Alber Elbaz and Rifat Ozbek.  

"It was so surreal - this is the first show I have ever seen," said Bailey. "I do shows, but I don't go to them. It was just extraordinary. I wanted to keep pressing the pause button, to study, look closer at, play with and enjoy the clothes. It was just what I had hoped for - and more... "There was such a huge amount of storytelling and I love the way the clothes were constructed - like a work in progress", Christopher Bailey said. 

"It was brilliant," Wintour said to WWD. "What I loved was the mix: There was so much that we know and we love about John, but then he took the Margiela vocabulary and translated it in such an appealing and innovative way. I loved seeing all the toiles at the end where you can see all the work and the new embroidery." 

The Artisanal Couture 2015 will be presented at Paris also during the Paris Couture Week between 25 and 31st of January.

Editor Andra Oprea