Greenpeace East Asia publishes its ranking "Detox" today that shows how major fashion brands are taking steps to remove toxic chemicals from their supply chains and reduce their impact on water pollution in areas of production. For four years, with its campaign "Detox" Greenpeace has pushed many textile groups to make concrete commitments to clean up their practices, with action plans and timelines.
Toxic chemicals, including endocrine disruptors such as nonylphenol, phthalates or PFCs, can be released into the environment and pollute water from textile mills to the consumer at the time of washing.
"Detox Leaders", "Greenwashers" or Detox Losers "?
Sixteen groups can be found in the group of "DETOX LEADERS 'ranking in 2015: Benetton, C & A, Esprit, G-Star Raw, Mango, Marks & Spencer, Burberry, Adidas, Fast Retailing, Levi's, H & M, Primark, Limited Brands, Valentino, Inditex (Zara) and Puma.
Brands like Nike or LiNing are classified as "GREENWASHERS" for their lack of credible action to "Detox", despite their statements.
Finally, we find among the "DETOX LOSERS" groups who have made no commitment despite the discovery of toxic chemicals in their production lines: Dolce Gabbana, Versace, Gap, Hermes, Vancl, Metersbonwe, PVH, Bestseller, Giorgio Armani LVMH / Christian Dior, Only the Brave.
"This year, the classification "Detox"shows that 16 textile groups began to eliminate the most toxic chemicals used. These groups have also started to publish data on the pollution emitted by their suppliers on an independent online platform explains Pierre Terras, in charge of international campaign "Detox" .This must create a new environmental standard for the fashion industry to improve the transparency of the supply chain and ultimately show that beautiful clothes can be manufactured without toxic pollution. "
Two French luxury group among the "DETOX LOSERS"
Hermes and LVMH / Christian Dior Couture are part of the group of "Detox Losers": they have made no commitment to get rid of their toxic addiction, while hazardous chemicals were found in children's clothing and shoes at analyzes carried out by Greenpeace International in February 2014.
"It is unfortunate that the French luxury brands do not meet the challenge, while they supposedly stand for quality and excellence," says Pierre Terras.
In China and elsewhere, awareness towards the "Detox"
The urgency to deal with the problems of the use of toxic chemicals in the textile industry and water pollution is taking hold in countries like China, where more than half of the surface water is not potable and 64% of groundwater reserves in large cities are highly polluted. The Chinese textile industry (57% of world production) is responsible for 10% of the production of industrial wastewater.
"This campaign towards fashion companies has led to significant changes in production countries like China with legislative developments, said Pierre Terras. Harmful products such as PFC, nonylphenols and phthalates have for example been included in China's 12th Five-Year Plan for the prevention and control of environmental risks associated with chemicals. Now the big brands that are committed among the "Detox Leaders" must continue their efforts, and others must give up their addiction to toxic chemicals. »
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