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BOSS Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015

fashion & stylenews

11 September 2014
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 In his second runway collection for BOSS, Artistic Director Jason Wu continues to define and delineate the codes and aesthetic identity of the BOSS woman. Strong, focused, exacting, yet always feminine, the Spring/Summer 2015 collection is a further refinement of the house's new womenswear signature.The men's suiting and shirting that form the backbone of BOSS is the unexpected starting point for a collection that explores lightness and fluidity. Seams themselves, essential to the structure of the garments, are a form of decoration, delineating the exterior of garments. The crisp white tuxedo shirt, elongated into a shirtwaist dress or paired with an embellished skirt, is a modern proposal for evening.

Silhouettes are brief, lines clear and sharp. Lace and embroidery, traditionally feminine decorations, are given a new graphicism. The color palette of celery,cement and glass, combined with black and white, is drawn from the work of Agnes Martin, whose geometric canvasses also inspire the decorative treatments. Fabrics have body and offer structure. Tweeds, bonded jersey and leather are cut into brief silhouettes, contrasted with the fragility of nylon tulle and organza ribbon and the crisp precision of cotton poplin.

Inspired by the texture of corrugated glass, micro-plissé is a form of structural decoration interspersed throughout the collection. Translucent layers are sewn and hand-pleated in a series of dresses with the mechanical precision belying the couture techniques necessary to achieve. Accessories underscore both palette and geometry. Bags are clean, high-lighted with metallic detailing, in plasteline shades of python, leather and the collection's key fabrics. Eyewear combines metal and acrylic, while shoes are either flat buckled gladiator sandals, wrapping high up the calf, or a high version with polished wooden heel. They exemplify the fusion of man and nature, of the organic and architectural, that is fundamental to Jason Wu's vision of BOSS Womenswear. 

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