As he enters his fourth season as Artistic Director of BOSS Womenswear, Jason Wu moves on from constructing the identity of the house to exploring the boundaries of his established aesthetic. Gentle ripples and waves within strict tailored lines and a more fluid graphic language define a beautiful collection for Cruise 2016, with a confident femininity at its heart. The ripples that appear in sand dunes inspire a wave pattern that is translated into a jacquard, a textured knit and a multi-textural embroidered fabric for evening. The tone-on-tone motif of the embroidery is constructed through six different artisanal techniques, using a combination of sequins, paillettes and beads.
The color palette begins with sage green, gray and white. Refined camel and black are combined with bold brick red, while elegant monochrome is the choice for intricately detailed evening pieces. Color blocking is a theme throughout, in both strong and more subtle forms. The new icon bag of the house, the BOSS Bespoke, is crafted in contrasting panels of brick red, camel and cream leather, and also in a fresh combination of sage green and white.
A fresh, modernist take on tailoring takes the BOSS woman effortlessly from day to night. Graphic inverted lapels and altered proportions offer a new twist on the iconic trouser suit, while the essential white shirt is updated in a sleeveless silhouette with a high collar. Shorter hemlines and lower necklines add a new youthfulness and delicate femininity to key pieces. The newly established core brand codes of cufflink, luxury staple and block in ice gold metal appear throughout the collection. The cufflink, an iconic feature of tailored menswear, is now an identifying feature of the modern BOSS woman's closet, used as a button on tailored coats, jackets and shirts, as well as to fasten accessories. Eveningwear is effortlessly modern, merging the minimal simplicity that defines BOSS Womenswear with softer shapes and textures, in tune with the new feminine mood of the season.
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