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Autumn/Winter 2019-20 Horti Pensiles Babylonis, Paris Fashion Week

fashion & stylenews

3 July
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This "Hanging Gardens of Babylon" collection was inspired by various classical history scenes and wonders of the ancient world, which the Creative Director grew to favour through her father's love for mythology. True to the Maison's canvas-to-image process, Gyunel painted gods and goddesses living in serenity in floating futuristic buildings with solar panels and surreal floral waterfalls high up in the skies.

"I painted the human-bodied creatures in white to match the clouds, while creating a translucent spirit feeling", describes Gyunel. Juxtaposed on the pièce de résistance sits an earth with surreal cherub and gargoyle waterspouts as waterfalls and mountains in tranquility matching the hanging gardens above within Gyunel's sphere of fantasy. There is an ombre transition from light to dark mint skies between the two parts, while for the sake of levitation, per Gyunel's original painting, the few panels of which the namesake triptych gown consists are hanging on Swarovski crystal tasseled suspensions.

The remainder of the collection ties in with the idea by featuring crystal tassels mixed with flowers hanging from sleeves and skirts reminiscent of motion. Additional inspiration was drawn from the way the late costumer designer Eiko Ishioka visualised Gods and Goddesses in one of Gyunel's favourite films, ‘Immortals', referenced here through the use of bronze in fabrics and tassels. Colours within the collection seem to transition from black, navy, burgundy and bronze to a lighter palette of mint, silver, nude and white. Fabrics were sourced among highest quality organzas, fully beaded tulles, metallic lamés, duchesses and various other silk satins like pleated georgette, while an abundance of appliqué elements from laser-cut flowers, pleats and tasseled writings in line with the main horticultural theme to prints and embroidery of hanging gardens, gods and guarding knights, all painstakingly executed in the Maison's Knightsbridge atelier.

A Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion graduate, Gyunel was a successful artist before expanding her horizons in fashion and couture. Known for their ethereal prints and unique designs, Gyunel'scollections start with her creative oil paintings that are then transformed into working fashion designs. These paintings are subsequently turned into prints on duchess, organza, crepe de chine and georgette created in-house in her London atelier.