The innocent, the matriarch, the anarchy of puberty and contemplation of adulthood
For his Paris debut Edwin Oudshoorn is loosely inspired by the 1971 film ‘Death in Venice' based on a novella by Thomas Mann about beauty and transience. The film follows an introvert composer who dedicates the final stages of his life to an impossible search for perfection. His fascination for a beautiful youth (the unattainable happiness) fills him with contradictory emotions of longing and fear. Finally, this same fascination allows him to die peacefully. Adoration of youth and the fear of loss are themes taken from the film that can traced throughout the collection.
Soft pastel colours, Victorian influences and feminine silhouettes are reminiscent of a day at the sea, while soft flowing silks, architectural raffia and intricate pleating are combined with hand embroidered gowns encrusted with 3D printed details, silver, gold and diamonds combined with plastic, wood, crystal and lace. For the bespoke precious gold, silver and 3D printed pieces used in this collection, Edwin Oudshoorn approached jewelry brand House of Eléonore and suggested a collaboration. Working together with their creative director Ray Steele and goldsmith Digna Gorkovoi, Edwin has developed a series of elements which run through the collection. Following the bespoke process of House of Eléonore, these pieces first appear in the collection in 3D printed white resin. Later, these same pieces evolve into silver and gold, all combined with diamonds, precious gemstones and crystals. Tailored suits, flowing gowns and outlandish embroideries deliver a vision which is both kitsch, dramatic and elegant with a definite ethereal beauty.
The show was a feast for the senses, with a dramatic and ethereal music score and the imposing setting of the Residence of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Paris providing the backdrop. A story symbolizing the quest for perfection, and the restrictions this imposes on the seeker. But also the inscrutability of life, maturity, resignation, and finding this where you were not looking.